May 24, 2013

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Retirement Investing 101: The Roth 401(k)

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This is the third post in our Retirement Investing 101 series written by Amanda Smith, Client Services Specialist at CESI. Check out Part 1 or continue on to Part 4.

Do you know the benefits of having a Roth 401(k)? Many people are not sure what exactly a Roth 401(k) is and how it can benefit them. A Roth 401(k) is an employer-sponsored savings account that, unlike the traditional 401(k), saves after-tax money remember that traditional 401(k)s use pre-tax money). If given the opportunity, a Roth 401(k) is in your best interest to participate in, simply because of the tax benefits.

While saving in a 401(k) will reduce your taxable income now, the taxable savings in the long run for a Roth 401(k) is outstanding. Here are a few basics regarding the Roth 401(k):

  • Savings are made with after-tax money
  • Savings grow tax-exempt
  • RMDs (Required Minimum Distributions)* are not required
  • All withdrawals are made tax-free
    • Must be 59 ½ or older
    • Must have account 5 years after first deposit

Yes, unlike with the traditional 401(k), all withdrawals are tax-free. This means, when you are older and want to go on vacation to Hawaii, you can withdraw from your Roth 401(k) tax-free, hop on the plane and soak up the sun. You can’t tell me this idea doesn’t rock your world! You may hear controversy regarding this option because it does not reduce your taxable income at the time you’re working. However, this idea is irrelevant to the enormous tax savings you receive at the end of your employment, combining earnings and growth over many years.

The downside of the Roth 401(k) is that many companies are not currently offering it to their employees. The Roth 401(k) has not been around as long as the traditional 401(k) but the savings vehicle is certainly making strides.

The investment options within the Roth 401(k) are the same as a regular 401(k). These saving vehicles work the same way but offer different tax benefits. If you’re fortunate enough to have the Roth 401(k) as an option, take advantage of it today!

If your company matches your contributions for a traditional 401(k), they will match the Roth 401(k) as well. One thing to be made aware of is the matching contributions made by your employer are pre-tax dollars. This means these contributions will grow tax deferred and will be taxed upon withdrawal. Please do not let this information mislead you into thinking participating in a Roth 401(k) is not a viable retirement savings option: it is! You will still have an amazing tax savings regardless.

But wait! There are two other saving vehicles that are available to you in addition to your employer-sponsored plan. We’ll cover those in the next post.

*What are RMDs?: The government requires individuals with IRAs and/or 401(k)s to withdraw from these accounts at the age of 70 ½. If you do not withdraw from these accounts, stiff penalties are given by the IRS. The fact that Roth accounts do not require withdrawals is a big deal – maybe not when you’re in your twenties, but one day you’ll be 70 ½ with grandkids and grey hair and this requirement will pertain to you.

Retirement Investing 101: The 401(k)

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This is the second post in our Retirement Investing 101 series written by Amanda Smith, Client Services Specialist at CESI. Check out Part 1 or continue on to Part 3.

Now, what is a 401(k) and why is it so important to have one? Simply put, a 401(k) is an employer-sponsored retirement savings plan - or an account your employer sets up for you with an investment company to make automatic deposits right from your pay. The dollars that are deposited into the account increase in value over a long period of time, tax deferred.

What does tax deferred mean? Tax deferred means your money can grow in the account and you do not have to pay taxes on that money until you withdraw from the account. (We’ll discuss withdrawals in a later blog.) How come you don’t pay taxes on that money until later, you ask? Because the money being deposited into the account through your payroll is made with before tax dollars, or gross pay. For example, if you were to look at your paystub you would see something like this:

40 hours at $10.00 = $400.00

401(k) contribution = $25.00

Total taxable income = $375.00

Federal taxes = $x

State taxes = $y

FICA = $z

Your take-home pay = $375.00 – all taxes

If you notice, the contributions are deducted from your paycheck before taxes are deducted from your income. Contributing to your 401(k) allows you to pay less in taxes today. This means you pay taxes on less money than if you did not contribute to a 401(k). The more you make in contributions, the fewer taxes to be paid. These contributions add up over time, turning into a larger amount when you need the money later.

Here’s another example. Sally makes $50,000 per year before taxes. She decides to contribute $10,000 to her 401(k), thus paying taxes only on $40,000 of income.

According to the IRS, employees can contribute up to $17,500 for those under the age of 50 for the year 2013. Employees over the age of 50 can make additional catch up contributions in the amount of $5,500. This is to help older employees who are closer to retirement save more money.

So what happens to that money in the 401(k) account? How does it turn into enough to live on during retirement? The
best way to substantially increase the value of your account is to invest your money. Stay tuned for the next post to learn about investing!

How to Throw a Frugal Super Bowl Party

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I have a confession: I know nothing about football. As in, nothing. At all. Sure, I know what a touchdown is, but that’s about it. Field goal? Huh? Running back? Which one’s he? So it shouldn’t come as a surprise to you that I don’t even care who wins the big game this weekend. All you football fanatics out there, please go easy on me!!…at least I know which teams are playing!

But don’t worry – I do know the single most important thing about football. And that is: Super Bowl Sunday means Super Bowl PARTY! My dad throws one every year, and although I don’t care about the game, you bet I’m there for the food and entertainment! Think you’re too broke to throw one? Think again. Here’s my advice for throwing a fun, frugal Super Bowl party.

  • Don’t waste a bunch of money on decorations for each team, especially since it could be years before you use them again. Instead, pick up some plates, napkins, and maybe some balloons and streamers in team colors at the dollar store. That way you don’t end up with a bunch of leftover Ravens and 49ers décor  – if you buy basic team colors, it’s easy to reuse it down the road for a birthday party or another celebration. Did I mention this is WAY cheaper?
  • I always suggest this for parties: make it a pot luck. Ask everyone to bring their favorite game day dish. You’ll end up with a bunch of tasty snacks, from jalapeno poppers to buffalo chicken dip, and you won’t have to spend much money. To make things more interesting, turn it into a contest. Have guests vote on the best tasting dish or the most creatively named one (for example, a few years ago we had Roethlisbergers at our party).
  • Provide the non-alcoholic beverages, but ask guests to bring their own alcohol if they wish. Try something creative, like making punch in the color of the team you’re rooting for. Look for coupons to use on sale items for any other drinks you want to supply.
  • If you’re providing the main dish, try a slow cooker recipe like chili. The ingredients are relatively inexpensive, you can feed a whole group of people easily, and it’ll stay hot all night so people can eat as they please. Plus, all you have to do is dump in the ingredients and the crock pot will do the rest!
  • You want everyone to be comfortable viewing the game, but what if you don’t have a big screen TV? No worries. Something we’ve done in the past is bring in a TV from another room and temporarily set it up on the other side of the room. Not enough seating? Ask friends to bring a folding chair, and everyone can sit wherever they’d like at either TV.

I may not ever remember which team won (or even which teams were playing!) each year, but I definitely won’t forget the party. Throw a cheap Super Bowl party with my tips, and your guests will be begging to come back to watch the game with you again next year!

Couponing 101: Finding the Deals

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This is Part 4 of our Couponing 101 series. Click here for Part 1, Part 2, and Part 3, or here for Part 5.

Our last post talked about finding a coupon matchup site. If you’ve done that, you’re almost ready to start shopping. But first I’m going to show you how to find deals. We’ll use my favorite matchup site, Southern Savers, as an example, with Harris Teeter as our example store. I’m going to this post in the Harris Teeter section, the most recent sales as of the time I’m writing this blog. Browse this post for a moment to see if it makes sense to you.

It might look a bit confusing. What are the numbers in parenthesis? What do all those abbreviations mean? Which coupon do I use?

The numbers in parenthesis represent the price of one item for Buy One, Get One deals. At Harris Teeter, you don’t have to buy two to get the “BOGO” price – if an item is BOGO, each rings up half price. But at some stores, you do have to buy both items to get the BOGO price. (Another reason why you should know store policies!)

The coupons currently available for the item are listed under the item title. Printable coupons are denoted with a link to the coupon; sometimes print limits have been reached and coupons are no longer available. (It’s a good idea to print high-value coupons you know you’ll use right away so you have them.) If the coupon is from an insert, it will say RP (RedPlum), SS (SmartSource), or PG (Proctor & Gamble) with the date of the insert. See why we labeled each insert? You can easily flip through your stack of RedPlums to find, say, the October 7 insert. There may be several coupons listed under a product, but the website should recommend which one to use to get the best price. Note that it may not be the highest value coupon depending on whether or not your store doubles. If your store doubles coupons up to 99 cents, a 75 cents off coupon would be more valuable than a $1.00 off coupon because it would double to $1.50 off – and the $1.00 off coupon would not double. Flip through the insert to find the coupon recommended to get the best deal, then clip it.

Occasionally, you may not find a coupon that’s supposed to be in a particular insert. Coupons vary by region, so that coupon may have been available in the region the blogger lives in but not where you’re at. So you may find that you miss a few good deals, but don’t worry – you’ll catch them at some point.

This week at HT, Smart Balance butter is on sale, BOGO for $2.69. Remember, at HT that means each item rings up at half price, $1.34. I have a coupon for 75 cents off, which doubles to $1.50 off – that means I get free butter! If you have more than one coupon, you could get more than one pack of butter for free. I do this when it’s free, since butter freezes.

Go through the list to find the items you’re interested in and clip those coupons. See why we didn’t clip them at first? It’s easier to leave them in the insert, since the matchup site will tell you exactly where to find them. Most sites will let you print a list of only the items you want, or you can write down your own list.

Now we’re ready to hit the store, but wait until you read the next post before you go!

 

Couponing 101: Stores, Coupon Policies, & Matchups

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This is Part 3 of our Couponing 101 series. Click here for Part 1 or Part 2, and or here for Part 4.

Now that you know some of the basics of couponing, you’re one step closer to saving money! But there are a few more steps to take before we can start shopping.

First, decide where you’ll shop. If you have several different grocery stores in your area, it may be tempting to keep up with the deals at all the stores so you don’t miss anything. But this is very time consuming, so to begin with you should start with just one store. We will use Harris Teeter for this example.

Once you decide on your store, do some research on its coupon policy. This can usually be found on the store’s website, but most coupon matchup sites will list the coupon policy too. It’s a good idea to print a copy of the policy so you have it when you checkout, because it’s not uncommon for cashiers to be unclear about the policy. Harris Teeter’s policy can be found here, and here are some items to note:

  • One manufacturer’s coupon per item (this is true for most stores, but some allow you to use a store coupon as well as a manufacturer’s coupon)
  •  You won’t receive cash back if the value of the coupon exceeds the value of the item (if the item is priced at $1.89 and your coupon is for $2.00 off, the value of the coupon essentially becomes $1.89, giving you the item for free without giving cash back)
  •  Item purchased must match size/flavor/variety written on the coupon (you won’t necessarily have to buy the exact variety in the picture on the coupon unless the coupons states so – but you must buy whatever is in the written description)
  • Manufacturer’s coupons up to 99 cents will be doubled (if you have a coupon for 75 cents off, HT would double it to $1.50 off) – UNLESS the coupon says “Do not double” (doubling policies vary from grocery store to grocery store, and some don’t double coupons at all)
  • Only 20 coupons will be doubled per household per day

Study your store’s policy so you understand what it means. If you’re unclear, you can usually post comments on the coupon matchup sites and another shopper will help clarify.

Wait, what’s a coupon matchup site? Basically, it’s where you find all the deals. It would take hours to go through all your coupons trying to match them with items that are on sale at the grocery store to find the best prices – luckily, there are bloggers out there who will do this for you. My favorite is Southern Savers, but if you’re not in the South you’ll need to find a different one. Coupon Divas lists many stores around the country. If you don’t find your store, do a Google search for “Your Store + coupon matchups” and you’ll come up with at least a few helpful blogs.

So your assignment after reading this is to become familiar with your store’s coupon policy and find a coupon matchup site for your store, then we’ll get to work couponing in the next blog!

Couponing 101: Debunking the Misconceptions

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This is part 2 of our Couponing 101 series. Click here for Part 1, or here for Part 3.

Everyone seems to have an opinion on coupons. Some people don’t leave home without them; others think they’re a waste of time. Some of the negative opinions are based on misconceptions that I’m going to address in this post. Hopefully after I’ve debunked some of these myths and you start to see how easy couponing is, you’ll be more interested in learning how to do it.

Misconception 1: I don’t have time to sort, cut, and organize all those coupons!

Reality: You don’t have to clip all the coupons! Just get as many coupon inserts as you can, but don’t cut coupons from them yet. Write the date on the front page (if they come in the mail, write the next Sunday’s date). If you don’t remember which date an insert was from, it’s written in very small print along the left spine of the insert. Next, store your inserts in a binder, on a shelf, or wherever you want. That’s it. No need to even flip through them yet.

Misconception 2: I have to spend money on a Sunday paper.

Reality: You don’t have to buy a paper unless you want to. In some areas, the same inserts that come in the paper come in the mail – but you’ll want more than one copy of each insert to get the best deals. At my apartment complex, people leave their unwanted coupons in the mail room for those who want extras. You could ask friends or neighbors who receive coupons in the mail or subscribe to the paper for their inserts. You can also buy inserts for cheap at sites like Sunday Coupon Inserts. Other ways to get coupons are from dispensers in-store, “peelies” on certain products you buy, or the Internet.

Misconception 3: Coupons are worthless and won’t save me more than a few bucks.

Reality: It’s all about timing. To maximize savings, wait until the product you want is on sale, then use a coupon. You can score big when items are “buy-one-get-one”. Say you have a coupon for 50 cents off a $3 item. The item is BOGO this week, so you get 2 for $3. If you have two of the 50 cents off coupons, you can use both (since you are getting two of the item). This means instead of 50 cents off one item, you get $1.00 off two items, which would have cost $3 without the coupons. Use the coupons and you’ll get both items for $2! This is why it’s important to get multiple copies of inserts, because they’re especially valuable for BOGO sales. See how that 50 cents off coupon can really save you money when used at the right time?

Misconception 4: You can’t eat healthy on a “coupon diet.”

Reality: There are actually coupons for all kinds of health foods. I’ve used coupons on produce, organic milk, eggs, cheese, meats, all-natural snacks, you name it. Not all coupons are for junk food.

Misconception 5: Coupons make you spend money on things you wouldn’t otherwise buy.

Reality: They can have that effect, but you have to fight it. Don’t buy coupon items in addition to what you’d normally buy – buy them INSTEAD of what you’d normally buy. I usually buy Healthy Choice meals to take for lunch. If I find a great deal on Stouffers meals or Uncle Ben’s Ready Rice pouches, I’ll stock up on those instead of Healthy Choice.

Hopefully couponing is starting to sound better to you. Stay tuned for our next post, and keep stocking up on inserts!

Make-Ahead Meals

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Maybe you’ve just had a long and/or stressful day at work.  Or maybe you just finished hitting the gym and you’re exhausted.  Maybe you have errands to run, things to do, places to be.

Whatever the case, you will eventually face the same choice as everyone else…

It’s time to eat.

 

Personally, when I’ve had a long or busy day (ok…maybe even sometimes when I haven’t), I don’t feel like cooking.  The thought of spending an hour in the kitchen to prepare a meal, and then cleaning up and washing dishes after, can make dining out or getting fast food even more appealing than it already is.   But there’s a better and cheaper way.

While I usually don’t mind eating leftovers a few days in a row, I do mind cooking and doing dishes enough look for a few shortcuts.

 

Enter Batch Cooking / Freezer Meals.

The idea is to  prepare enough servings to last a while, so that you can have a backup supply stored for those times when you don’t feel up to the task, or just as a convenience.  This helps resist the urge to go out to eat, and it’s also a good way to save time, since it usually doesn’t take much longer to make a bigger batch of something.

TV dinners aren’t the only meals that can be frozen; by using freezer bags, you can preserve many precooked meals in the freezer for months.  Setting aside individual portions makes taking lunch to work a breeze.  Since I started using this approach, my freezer space has been getting smaller and smaller.  This is the biggest disadvantage, but for me that’s a better problem than not having ready-to-eat food.

If leftovers don’t appeal to you, you can prepare multiple meals in advance to make sure you’re not limited to the same thing every day. Some people even dedicate a day or 2 each month to preparing meals for the entire month in advance!  I will definitely need to invest in a bigger freezer if I go that route, but it might be worth it.

This is definitely a case where being prepared can save time, money, and stress.  It can not only mean less cooking, but also better meal planning and more efficient grocery shopping.

So you can see that cooking doesn’t have to be an everyday thing.  And not cooking every day also doesn’t have to mean being restricted to having the same leftovers over and over again.

There are many resources on batch cooking and freezing meals.  Here are some guides including meal ideas and what will and won’t freeze well:

http://www.favoritefreezerfoods.com/

http://blog.foodnetwork.com/healthyeats/2010/09/24/make-ahead-meals-big-batch-recipes-to-cook-freeze/

http://www.netmums.com/family-food/meal-planning/cooking-tips/batch-cooking-and-freezing

http://happymoneysaver.com/making-50-freezer-meals-in-one-day/

http://allrecipes.com/howto/freezing-foods-a-real-time-saver/

http://simplemom.net/back-to-the-basics-batch-cooking/

Scam Alert: Avoid Disaster-Related Fraud

When a disaster like Hurricane Sandy strikes, our nation comes together to help those who were affected by the tragedy. Unfortunately, this is also when scammers try to take advantage of those who have lost so much and those who are eager to help. Whether or not you felt Sandy’s winds and rain, you could still be the next target of fraudsters looking to make money off the storm. Here are several types of scams to be aware of.

Charity scams. Give to well-established charities that you’re already familiar with to avoid being ripped off when you’re trying to help. Be weary of organizations that won’t tell you exactly how your money will be used. Many well-intentioned groups will pop up looking to help with relief efforts, but they often don’t have the means to help the way an established organization does. Be careful about which organizations get your money so they don’t take it and run.

Damaged car scams. This one applies any time you plan to buy a used car, but it’s especially relevant in the wake of Sandy. Inspect any car you plan to buy for water damage. Check for silt or mud in crevices, inside the air vents, or in hidden areas like under the seat. Other signs of water damage are a musty or moldy smell, new upholstery or carpet, and water mixed with engine fluids. If you’re in doubt, use the VIN number located on the windshield to run a title search on the car.

Identity theft. If you’re affected by the storm and have lost important documents or your wallet, contact your financial institutions to close your accounts. If you’ve given your Social Security number out, you may want to place a fraud alert on your credit report. This means companies will take extra steps to verify your identity before giving you credit. You can do this by contacting one of the three credit reporting bureaus (TransUnion, Equifax, or Experian).

Home repair scams. Owners of severely damaged homes are prime targets of fraudsters because their minds are on fixing the home, not protecting themselves from fraud. Fake contractors may approach you about repairs, asking for the entire payment up front – but a legitimate contractor should allow you to pay in installments with only a deposit up front. Don’t sign lengthy paperwork without reading it as you may be agreeing to extra fees. If you’re unsure which company to use, ask your claims adjuster for referrals. Ask to see the licensing and insurance information for any company you use, and check Better Business Bureau ratings. Pay in credit or installments from the bank, not cash, for more protection. If it doesn’t feel right, don’t go with it.

Advance fee loan scams. If someone offers you a loan but asks for money up-front as a “processing fee”, don’t do it. The government won’t ask you to pay a fee for FEMA assistance.

Always be skeptical and do your homework. You may be in a hurry to get repairs done or help others out, but this makes you a prime target for crooks. Always verify the identity of anyone claiming to be a government official, utility worker, or safety inspector. If you want to donate, give your money to a reputable organization with a history of helping in situations like this. It’s unfortunate that some people try to take advantage of those affected by such a tragedy, but be smart about who you give your information to in order to avoid being a victim of fraud.

Why Financial Literacy 101 Should Be Taught In Schools

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We live in a time when teaching financial responsibility to kids is increasingly important. The recent economic crisis has showed us that many adults aren’t financially savvy either. Teaching children about finances from a young age would help them be better prepared to face economic crises as adults.

I’m sure no one will argue that personal financial knowledge is vital to kids growing up to be successful adults, but there’s much debate on who should teach them such skills. Some argue that parents should teach kids based on their family’s values and resources – but the problem with this is that many parents don’t have much financial knowledge to pass on to kids, especially those from families with lower incomes and more debt. These kids are more likely to be stuck in a cycle of poor money management because they don’t have the resources to get out of it, whereas children from wealthier families are more likely to learn about their 401k.

For these reasons, personal financial management lessons should be taught in schools. English, math, and science are core subjects – why shouldn’t financial management be? It’s a skill kids would use through their entire adult life, and is arguably just as important as reading and writing. Teaching these skills in school ensures that all kids have an equal opportunity to learn about finances, regardless of their family’s financial background – thus giving all children a chance to break their parents’ cycle of poor money management.

In Chicago, some elementary schools are now offering a financial management course for third graders. The 8-week program, taught during students’ library period, teaches the four pillars of finance: saving, spending, donating, and investing. At the end of the course, each student receives a piggy bank, called the Money Savvy Pig, which has four slots – one each for saving, spending, donating, and investing.

Wisconsin is one of four states now requiring students to take a personal finance management course to graduate high school. Students pick an occupation they’re interested in, research the salary, then learn life budgeting skills based on the salary they’d earn in that position. Their “textbooks” are sites like Yahoo! Finance and Money.com.

But do these courses work? In Chicago, the elementary students showed a better understanding of the stock market and other financial concepts. I haven’t been able to find data on the effectiveness of the Wisconsin course, but I would theorize that teaching finance to younger kids – and reinforcing it for the rest of their years in school through games, financial word problems, and more complex lessons as they get older – would be more effective than teaching one class for 17- and 18-year-olds who already have developed some spending patterns. Still, the high school course is a huge start and it would certainly leave those kids in a much better place financially than their peers who didn’t take the course.

Many states don’t offer finance classes because, ironically, they don’t have the funds to offer separate courses or to provide adequate financial training for teachers. A step in the right direction, then, might be to incorporate financial management into core classes, such as doing financial word problems in math or playing board games that teach about money, like Awesome Island.

Personal financial education is extremely important for kids. Particularly for kids from low income families, it’s important to learn that you don’t have to be rich to save money – you just have to be willing to put a few dollars away.

Easy Ways to Save on Your Utility Bills

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Fall is my favorite season – the air feels crisp and clean, the colors of the leaves are beautiful, and my energy bill drops drastically as the temperature cools down. But for many of us, that relief from a high power bill will be brief as winter approaches and energy use creeps back up again. But there are many easy steps you can take the keep your power bill as low as possible.

  • Buy a programmable thermostat so the heat isn’t blasting all day while no one is home. You can set it up to warm the house just before you get home. The thermostat will pay for itself as you save on heating costs.
  • Weatherproof your home. Check around windows and doors to be sure there are no cracks where cold air can get in. You can easily add caulking and weather stripping to seal up the home. The Alliance to Save Energy estimates that a properly insulated home improves energy efficiency by up to 20% per year! If you have an attic, be sure that’s insulated as well to prevent the warm air from rising and escaping.
  • If you live in an area where you have multiple options for utility companies, shop around to save money. Or ask if your power company offers a time-of-use plan, where users pay lower rates for energy consumption during off-peak hours. But do keep in mind that peak-hour consumption may be more expensive if you’re on this plan, so it may only be beneficial if you’re a night owl.
  • Have your furnace inspected every two or three years. Clean or replace air filters every two months during the colder months.
  • For every one degree you drop the thermostat, you could save 2% on your energy bill. You probably won’t notice a difference if the house is a degree or two cooler.
  • Most of the energy used by your washing machine is to heat the water, so wash clothes in cold water to save a lot of energy and money.
  • Insulate your hot water heater with a hot water heater jacket to save up to 9% in water heating costs. While you’re at it, turn the thermostat down to 120 degrees – the water will still be plenty hot.
  • Switch to compact fluorescent lightbulbs which last up to 10 years. They’re more expensive than regular bulbs, but they’ll save you a fortune over their lifetime.
  • Use the microwave or toaster oven instead of the regular oven when possible. It takes a lot more time and energy to heat your oven, and every time you open the door to peek inside, the temperature drops by up to 50 degrees. So if you must use the oven, set a timer and avoid peeking in to see if the food’s done.

Energy prices are expected to increase this winter due to colder temperatures and increased energy consumption, but if you follow our tips, you won’t feel as much pain next time the power bill arrives.